Thursday, November 22, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving



Koojo and Kofi, gathering water during one of our crazy thunderstorms.

11/18/07

“He was asleep when the boy looked in the door in the morning. It was blowing so hard that the drifting boats would not be going out and the boy had slept late and then come to the old man’s shack as he had come each morning. The boy saw that the old man was breathing and then he saw the old man’s hands and he started to cry. He went out very quietly to go to bring some coffee and all the way down the road he was crying.”
-Earnest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea

So my birthday came and went. Just like that. It was pretty fortunate timing in that my birthday was a day we were all together as volunteers. Thus we were able to go hang out afterwards and by no means was I alone. I feel for those who will celebrate their first birthday in country at their site…not that they’re necessarily be alone, but Ghana is not a country who pays particular attention to such dates. It was also a mail day on the 16th (I’m not sure I can explain the excitement of mail days throughout the group…it really is a great thing) and I received a lot of news from home which is always good. Thank you all for sending me cards and letters and packages and such; it was a tremendous blessing.

A lot of things are happening as training is coming to a close. We all returned from site visit last Thursday and I think I can speak for everyone when I say we all returned from site changed. I’d be lying if I said I was enthralled with the condition of my village and the task set before me but like everything else thus far you learn to adapt and then somehow things are ok. Somehow. My village is a very poor community in the upper Volta region. I’m replacing two volunteers who were married and, apparently saints, according to the community’s commentary. It’s very difficult coming this shortly after someone else has left because the community is still mourning the loss of the previous volunteers and thus comparing this new specimen of a volunteer (me) to the former. I understand that things become easier in this realm as I get to know more of the community. However, communication is also a little bit of a challenge considering I spent the last 8 weeks learning a language they don’t speak in my village. It’s good that I’m learning Twi because it’s spoken throughout the majority of Ghana; but it also would have been nice to learn even a little of the other so that I could at least greet in the local language.
Oh well.
So here is a small list of things I did at site visit:
-Swept.
-Met the chief.
-Accidentally locked myself in my room. (Don’t worry. They used a machete to get me out.)
-Made lots of coffee.
-Swept.
-Read a month old newspaper from the states.
-Watched the community women perform traditional dance.
-Tried to perform traditional dance.
-Ended up doing the index fingers out, shake your body boogie.
-Was laughed back to my chair.
-Met opinion leaders.
-Biked 20 miles to catch a taxi.
-Swept
-Ran with about 40 children in pursuit, with water buckets on their heads, barefoot, and yes, they kept up.
-Did laundry.
-Waited for laundry to dry.
-Swept.
-Wrote letters.
-Met lots of community women.
-Talked to my dogs.
-Talked to the roaches.
-Tried to beat roaches with sweeper.
-Swept.
-Visited clinic.
-Wished I was eating icecream.
-Wished it wasn’t 100 degrees in my house.
-Read.
-Arranged my books.
-Rearranged my books.
-Swept.
-Pouted. Only a little.
-Talked to my amazing neighbors.
-Rode 12 hours in a tro.
-Regretted not packing more underwear.
-Swept.

Two years seemed really long over site visit. It’s daunting to know that I was only present for 5 days and yet never felt that I had a complete grasp on what was going on. It’s not that the community wasn’t warm and accepting. My counterpart, Kingsley, is very helpful and seems respected in the community. My house is adequate, I have two rooms, a kitchen and a bedroom along with sort of an inclosed porch thing that is nice. Chris and Sayward, the volunteers before me, left a lot of things that I would otherwise have to buy. Things like a gas stove, dishware, sheets, etc. so that makes settling in a lot easier. I think that overall my experience was pretty normal of site visit. It’s more the doubts that I have prevailing in myself that have presented the greatest challenge.

I’m finding that compassion, at least for myself, is fleeting here. There are certain coping mechanisms that we all apply when subjected to intense situations. In the quote that I mentioned above from The Old Man and the Sea, the boy walked in on the old man sleeping. The old man had just returned from a fishing trip in which he was badly beaten both physically and mentally. His hands had been especially mangled while spending two days reeling in the king kong of fish. I’m not wanting to give a book report but I was moved by the compassion the boy had on the old man. To cry from the wounds of another seems almost sacred and though one cannot rely solely on feelings, there’s no doubt that compassion can begin a movement. But what happens when that is no longer present? When the feeling of wanting to make things better fades into a thought process of blame and apathy? What about when I see the malnourished child and instead of embracing I ask why the mother is so ignorant to let her child waste away? I’ve talked to a few people about things and Ryan, a health volunteer in my region and one who has been here already a year, explained that our quest is productivity. He talked about how he’s changed since he’s been here and he mentioned how his compassion has changed to logical problem solving. It is true that if one were to weep at every injustice then there would be no time spent not crying. So instead, he focuses his energy into assessing the needs, and then logically plans out the steps that need to happen to ensure change. This is hard coming from a country that romanticizes everything. Hollywood can glorify any historical event or story line; religion adds a twist where somehow in the mix Jesus meets Abercrombie; we glam up the party life as if sex and booze will solve all of our problems; and one can definitely find the exaggeration in our idea of compassion. We get all worked up about a noble cause, mustering tears of empathy and perhaps even some sort of financial contribution.
But it passes.
Because it can.
Because it was only a feeling that changes with the seasons or perhaps the song one is listening to.
That’s definitely me and thus far this sort of process has sustained me. But things are getting harder along with maybe my heart and I’m finding doing things void of feeling is a huge challenge; mostly because that means I’d have to stop thinking about myself. I’m not really sure where I’m going with this and I don’t even know if this is making sense. Needless to say, I do hope to grow stronger and to be fueled more by the greater good rather than self serving compassion. But like the boy looking at the old man, I still want something inside of me to hurt by the wounds of another. I don’t want to discount authentic compassion in the least; but I’m learning that it’s the productivity of compassion that makes it authentic.

Anyways, we only have a few more days of homestay. It’s going to be a very, very sad day when I say goodbye to my family. I can’t believe it’s already gone by this quickly. Some people from home have asked a little about my family, like how many are there and what their names are. My father’s name is Papa Amoah, my mother’s is Maame Alice, and then I have 2 sisters named Diana (14 years) and Obina (25ish years) and 3 brothers named Koojo (10 years), Kofi (12 years), and…well I never really learned the last one’s name…so I call him “brother” (maybe 16 years?). They’ve been amazing and I honestly can’t think of how this phase could have been better.

Happy Birthday Cody.

11/20/07

Our big language test is tomorrow. One week ago I would have said this test would be a piece of cake. Now, since we’ve been reviewing, I’m finding how much I don’t know.
Such is life…like my mom would say. At least I’m getting good at doing laundry and finally mastering how to eat without utensils.
With only one hand.
My right hand.
Because one doesn’t use the left hand for anything here. The culture considers the left hand unclean (I think in olden times this hand was used for wiping after toilet) and therefore if any task such as eating or shaking hands or even handing something over is done with the left then it is considered insulting. Just for kicks you should try omitting the left hand out of your daily interactions. It's harder than you'd think. I also carried water on my head for the first time today. I made it about 10 yards…or maybe it was 10 feet…really just depends on perspective…I spilt a lot of it. All over myself. And they all laughed at me. Then a kind gentleman carried it the mile hike back to our house from the stream. My 10 year old brother, Koojo, had gone with me and it bothered me a little that his bucket was twice the size of mine, but again, humility comes easily in this country.

11/21/07

Language test is over.
That’s a really good feeling.
I’m sore from carrying the water bucket.
There was an amazing storm that just passed through leaving everything really cool and quiet. I don’t think I really have much more to say. I find that my blog entries are a bit vague. If anyone on the receiving end of this has a question concerning…well anything please ask as it would give me something else to write about aside from simply my thoughts.

I miss you all very much and the holidays are going to be different here. Thank you to everyone who was in Matt’s video, it was so good to see you all. I’m still a bit bitter about the cheesecake factory scene but I guess I have some time to get over it.

Kassi, I miss you.
A whole lot.

And Stacia, I really wish you would have been in the video.

11/22/07

-My compassion is fleeting
and I wonder why you fail to notice.
Could it be your presence is less conditional
than my intentions?
Or maybe, that I feel more obvious is only wishful thinking.
Twilight speaks different
as every dusk seems as the last,
and happiness is patiently redefined
into something more attainable.
Perhaps it simply takes peace within myself
to understand the vagueness of purpose;
and then be content within the abstraction,
Or sometimes subtraction of feeling.-

Happy Thanksgiving.

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

....

Hey. This is going to be short. Just wanted to let you all know things are going pretty well. Site visit was good; perhaps a bit overwhelming. I'll write more in detail later...well maybe I will. I don't know. Really I'm just trying to upload some pictures but I've only been able to get one. One is apparently the limit.
that's me up there. In case you forgot. I'm in a church in Forikrom where I've been staying with my family.

Bye for now.

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Such is life...

“True grace is in forgetting; yet if pride could die in us, the supreme grace would be to love oneself in all simplicity as one would love any member of the body of Christ. Does it really matter? Grace is everywhere.”
-George Bernanos

10/24/07

Field trip.

Amazing.

That’s really the only word I can use to describe it. Actually, I can use many words: serene, beautiful, comforting…really I could go on but there’s no way words could justify. What is field trip? Basically it was just another chance to visit an existing health volunteer and experience day to day life along with various other activities. We left last Saturday for a town called Brekamonso. We arrived in the evening time and ate dinner and then proceeded to go to our place of residence for the next 5 days. We knew we were going to stay at a bed and breakfast type place but I’m not sure any of us were prepared for what was to come. We had to walk about half a mile to the actually residence because it was hidden in the mountains. We arrived in the main open aired bungalow that would come to be our place of hang out and saw hammocks, a wooden table, drums, and all lit up by lantern. The shelter looked out into the lushness of Ghana and the sound of waterfalls was a constant compliment. Because we were somewhat elevated the view was breathtaking, the breeze new and the stars were like I’ve never seen before. We all stayed in circular bungalows that were surrounded by vineyard flowers and palm trees and each night we sat by lantern and played drums with the couple who owned the bed and breakfast. It was not a big place, in fact, the ten of us filled it up and because there was no electricity we took showers by moonlight every night. It felt like something out of a movie, only we were really there. Our time in Brekamonso consisted of playing soccer against the village soccer team, teaching about malaria, visiting the clinic, planning lessons to teach at the school, eating orange marmalade, falling down waterfalls, good conversation, and for the first time it seems, actually being completely in Ghana.

10/29/07

Now we are back in everyday training. I’ve been a little more motivated in my language sessions and my family is having me do much more around the house, which is good to learn. It’s crazy that training is already half over. There is a project called SCOP that we’re all having to work on. Basically is it an event that small groups plan to help the community in which we’re staying. My partners are Alicia and Niall and for our project we are doing a play promoting acceptance for those living with HIV. The play is an adaptation of “The Point” by Henry Nielsen that Alicia came up with. Despite my hesitance, everything has gone incredibly well. Most of those who are involved in the play are JSS 2 kids, which are about 14-16 years old. They understand so much and are incredibly willing to try new things.

And they can dance.

Very well.

Needless to say, working on the play has definitely been a highlight.

Our next big event is site visit, which I believe comes up in about a week in a half. On this trip our counter parts (a person from our future village who is essentially assigned to work with us for the next two years) will travel to pick us up, and then take us back to our almost sites. It’s a very exciting time because most of us have not seen where we will be living; we’ve only heard small.

Small small.

Akrakakra.

Only a little.

Just a side note, English is fleeting here. Especially the English we speak in America. In a lot of ways it’s incredibly more correct and proper yet on the other it’s a little quirky and quite foreign. There is a certain accent one must obtain in order to be understood by a local and sometimes this “broken English” carries over to two Americans talking, which is quite funny. I write this only to pre-apologize for any future phone conversations in which you and I may have. I’m sorry for this.

11/1/07

Halloween was yesterday.
I feel that this is how holidays (if you can consider Halloween a holiday?) are going to go overseas. I’m going to sit down to write or perhaps look at the date on my phone and some little twinge will remind me that this used to be a day that at one point in my life…I celebrated something.

We did, however, have a sort of cook off shindig. Throughout training we have certain things that we’re evaluated on; one of these things is our ability to cook with local ingredients and in a way that will be applicable when we go to our sites, such as being able to cook over fire. So my group decided to bring a little taste of America to the black star country. Our dish was called the magical mystery melt (not to be confused with the magical midget that frequents this little town of Forikrum…another story) which consisted of tuna, mayo, cheese, vegetables, and spices all grilled to a wondrous perfection between two toasted pieces of sweet bread. For our desert we made a fruit salad consisting of papaya, pineapple, bananas, and oranges with cinnamon and dare I say it…a la mode style.

We rocked it out.

The deprivation of familiar foods is something I think we’re slowly getting used to here but it’s days like yesterday when you remember the beauty of cheese or the simple style of a sandwich and you vow never to take such foods for granted again. It was a good day.

It’s crazy the other things I’m finding myself appreciating. I love music. I always have. I brought a lot of music from home and I’m finding that I like it even more in Africa. Andrew Peterson for instance, you can’t really get enough of him here. Anyways, the other day we were watching a video at a home for children with mental disabilities. The place was founded and ran by a Dutch woman and her Jewish husband who is a retired actor and musician from Chicago. It was a great place and very unique to a culture that tends to shun those suffering from mental disorders. I bring this up in the music aspect of my blog because accompanying this video was sort of a collage of jazz tunes. I can’t say that I’m learned on my jazz really at all; but sitting there listening to the jazz piano and bass brought on this feeling of almost euphoria. I realize it’s a little odd that I’m writing about this, but this is only one example of something that seems just a little bit better in Africa. Somehow things seem more possible here in Ghana. Things that I would never consider learning about or trying suddenly seem in reach and fascinating. Maybe it’s because no one really knows me here; the things that defined me in America no longer have to be my vices and those things I feared to try could suddenly be things that I love to do…and perhaps am even good at.

And really, send me jazz music. Please.


Be well.